If I were Pinot Meunier I'd be feeling a little nervous. This thin-skinned red grape is grown extensively but almost exclusively in Champagne. A hairy mutation of Pinot Noir, Meunier earned its position as Champagne's most popular vine variety through reliability. Pinot Noir is often caught by Spring frosts; Meunier, which buds later, usually escapes them. It also ripens more quickly and easily than Pinot Noir. No small consideration in some of the world's most cool and northerly vineyards. On the whole, it is exigency, and not admiration, that is behind Meunier's popularity in Champagne. As reported in the Drinks Business this week , the recent run of warmer vintages in Champagne have prompted some to question the viability of Pinot Meunier in the region, as growers plant Pinot Noir instead. Meunier's dependable amenability is no longer an asset; good wine is not made from grapes that have galloped to overripeness. So, is our fruity, simple little friend is on the ...
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