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Showing posts from September, 2011

Will the real Pinot Meunier please stand up?

If I were Pinot Meunier I'd be feeling a little nervous. This thin-skinned red grape is grown extensively but almost exclusively in Champagne. A hairy mutation of Pinot Noir, Meunier earned its position as Champagne's most popular vine variety through reliability. Pinot Noir is often caught by Spring frosts; Meunier, which buds later, usually escapes them. It also ripens more quickly and easily than Pinot Noir. No small consideration in some of the world's most cool and northerly vineyards. On the whole, it is exigency, and not admiration, that is behind Meunier's popularity in Champagne. As reported in the Drinks Business this week , the recent run of warmer vintages in Champagne have prompted some to question the viability of Pinot Meunier in the region, as growers plant Pinot Noir instead. Meunier's dependable amenability is no longer an asset; good wine is not made from grapes that have galloped to overripeness. So, is our fruity, simple little friend is on the

Should we fear for Brunello? The dangerous allure of international grapes

In a week in which we've offered the deliciously characterful and traditional Brunello di Montalcino of Biondi Santi, I received the following letter from my fellow Master of Wine, Nick Belfrage. It is an open letter to the producers of Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello's lighter, slightly less serious, cousin. The producers are to vote on the 7th September on whether to allow a proportion of 'other' (for which, read Merlot, Cabernt Sauvignon or Shiraz) grape varieties into Rosso di Montalcino. Nick is an inspiring authority on Italian wine, and a great writer. His letter highlights many of the key characteristics that make wine such a powerful and rewarding expression of identity and place. AN OPEN LETTER FROM NICK BELFRAGE MW TO THE PRODUCERS OF MONTALCINO WINES I understand that, on Wednesday Sept 7, 2011, a vote will be held in the Assemblea of Montalcino wine producers on whether to allow a small but significant percentage of other grapes, which everyone underst