The En Primeur campaign for Bordeaux Vintage 2009 saw high prices, huge demand and praise that ranged from fulsome to hysterical. On the 18 th October 2011 came the opportunity to taste the finished wines at the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting at Covent Garden. Broadly, the wines seem to be fulfilling that early promise. It’s worth considering why they might not. 2009 was not a shoe-in (or, at any rate, less of a shoe-in than 2005). The blissful and long summer dominates the memory and vintage reports, but the hail of spring, and the drought of that summer, brought challenges. Ripeness is a many-splendoured thing, and while sugar levels soared (potential alcohol of 14% was commonplace) and acidities fell, phenolics in skins and pips came along worryingly slowly. The skill was in extraction, and in thereby avoiding the danger of highly alcoholic wines of moderate acidity and hard, coarse tannins. At this stage (and it’s still very early days for 2009) Saint...
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