I thought I knew about Champagne but a two day trip to the region this week changed my whole perception. After two decades of working with wine, I had never before visited Champagne but what better way to rectify that than with appointments at Ruinart and Krug. At Ruinart, we were warmly welcomed into Champagne's oldest house. Dom Ruinart was a contemporary and acquaintance of the man credited with creating the first Champagne, Dom Perignon. Our visit started with a tour of one of their three levels of underground crayères. As we descended their depths, the drop in temperature was profound. Upon entering the first chamber, words failed me; to call this awe-inspiring would be a gross understatement. The vast chambers have shafts reaching vertically towards the surface far above, often exiting in someone’s back garden; therefore the tunnels are owned quite independently of whoever owns the property or land above. Resurfacing,...
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