A tweet a few weeks back from Robert Parker about the upcoming Bordeaux 2011 En Primeur tastings evoked anxiety in some, but optimism in others.
His comment, to the effect that 2011 appeared to be a vintage of little interest, might depress those who rely only on Parker's points and endorsements to sell or buy wine. But there is a brighter side. Immoderate praise from the world's most influential wine critic will certainly make producers more likely to reduce prices, possibly significantly, from the heights of the two preceding years.
As for me, maybe it's a love for the underdog, or good old-fashioned masochism, but I find it impossible not to be interested and curious about every vintage. The cooler, difficult and marginal vintages probably most of all. They are much more challenging and therefore rewarding to evaluate in all senses, gustatory and intellectual. My preference veers more towards austerity than extroversion in wine, which I accept is not the case for everyone. Nonetheless, Bordeaux 2001, 2004 and 2008 have yielded some of my favourite wines. I like their cooler, quieter tenacity. And I love the thrill of feeling that I've found an overlooked, affordable gem.
Anyway, any hopes for a bargain vintage have probably been cracked a little by Parker's subsequent feedback, having tasted the wines. Which is basically that they're much better than he expected.
Our adventure through 2011 Bordeaux begins tomorrow, when the 14-strong team from BWI and (our American cousins) BWL settle in to Chateau Carignan for the En Primeur tasting week. I'm expecting less extract and weight than in 2010 and 2009. Fresher and more prominent acidity. Crunchier fruit. Heterogenous quality. I'm also expecting to, and confident of, discovering some lovely, fine wines. If they tell the story of their place and year, my happiness will be complete. I do wish Parker hadn't changed his mind, however.
We shall let you know how we get on.
His comment, to the effect that 2011 appeared to be a vintage of little interest, might depress those who rely only on Parker's points and endorsements to sell or buy wine. But there is a brighter side. Immoderate praise from the world's most influential wine critic will certainly make producers more likely to reduce prices, possibly significantly, from the heights of the two preceding years.
As for me, maybe it's a love for the underdog, or good old-fashioned masochism, but I find it impossible not to be interested and curious about every vintage. The cooler, difficult and marginal vintages probably most of all. They are much more challenging and therefore rewarding to evaluate in all senses, gustatory and intellectual. My preference veers more towards austerity than extroversion in wine, which I accept is not the case for everyone. Nonetheless, Bordeaux 2001, 2004 and 2008 have yielded some of my favourite wines. I like their cooler, quieter tenacity. And I love the thrill of feeling that I've found an overlooked, affordable gem.
Anyway, any hopes for a bargain vintage have probably been cracked a little by Parker's subsequent feedback, having tasted the wines. Which is basically that they're much better than he expected.
Our adventure through 2011 Bordeaux begins tomorrow, when the 14-strong team from BWI and (our American cousins) BWL settle in to Chateau Carignan for the En Primeur tasting week. I'm expecting less extract and weight than in 2010 and 2009. Fresher and more prominent acidity. Crunchier fruit. Heterogenous quality. I'm also expecting to, and confident of, discovering some lovely, fine wines. If they tell the story of their place and year, my happiness will be complete. I do wish Parker hadn't changed his mind, however.
We shall let you know how we get on.
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