Our
man in Hong Kong, Martin Lea, enjoyed an evening – and a wine – this week that he
won’t forget in a hurry:
As nights go in Hong Kong, I knew this had
the potential to be a bit special. From the moment the invitation
was offered to dine at Otto E Mezo Italian Restaurant (the only three star
Michelin outside of Italy) from a very generous Japanese client,
who also promised to bring a bottle of '95 Le Pin, I found it hard to
contain my excitement. I also found it daunting trying to select a wine
that could hold its own in such lofty company! I opted for a bottle of
'86 Haut Brion, which I knew was hitting its prime having tasted it a few
months ago.
The Haut Brion was impressive, although not
quite in the same league as the previous bottle, highlighting the old adage
that 'there are no great wines, only great bottles'. A bottle
of the delicious '90 Las Cases followed, whilst throughout we enjoyed a
feast of truffles, Tajima short rib and homemade tagliolini. We then
moved on to the cheese... and the Le Pin. This was my first experience of
mature Le Pin and it did not disappoint, in fact it blew me away! Now I know what all the fuss
is about - It blew every other wine out of the water. An unforgettable
experience.
The nose was unlike anything I had smelt before
- aromas of cherry, beef oxo cubes and spearmint jumped out of the glass.
The palate was almost Burgundian, but had a richness and depth of flavour that
only great wines possess. If I was lucky enough to own a bottle (chance
would be a fine thing), I would wait at least another 5 years as it certainly
had potential to gain more complexity.
I have heard stories of so called 'mythical
wines' falling short of their legendary status; however this bottle far
exceeded my expectations. Where next - '89 Petrus?!
Have you had the pleasure of the 1995 Le Pin? Let us know
what you thought.
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