The unsung hero: Châteauneuf du Pape and the diminishing thirteen

The village of Châteauneuf du Pape is in the far south of France, where the long-travelled river Rhone broadens through Montélimar (of nougat fame), Orange and the Camargue on its way to the Mediterranean Sea. The atmospheric name of place and wine is uncontrived. These vineyards are just a few miles from the briefly papal city of Avignon, and are overlooked by the (now ruined) “new chateau” built on a hill as a breezy summer retreat for their Holinesses in the 14^th century. The region drips atmosphere: a place of sun, thyme and lavender. There are ruined Roman glories and craggy hills. Evocative but arid Mistral winds. We Brits seem particularly susceptible to the siren call of this bright, dry Mediterranean warmth.

Châteauneuf du Pape certainly has great resonance for us: it is one of the most familiar and popular fine French reds. The producers here were the first to come together to draw up rules on production methods to maintain quality, dissuade fakers and protect their reputation. Their initiative, just after the First World War, inspired the national Appellation Controlée system. This nugget of wine history is pretty well known. Even more well known, and not just to those in the trade, if my dinner party experiences are representative, is that 13 grapes varieties can be included in the blend.

In practice, Châteauneuf du Pape is composed of three main varieties: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre.

Mourvédre is, as an Australian winemaker once told me, “a bloody bugger” to ripen. This thick-skinned sun worshipper needs, even this far south, the hotter, south-facing slopes, and struggles to ripen on the cooler slopes north of Mount Redon. With its inky blackness and plentiful tannins, Mourvédre is the Petit Verdot of the South. Like that grape, at its best Mourvédre has very arresting, almost piercing aromatics. Also wild, dark, gamey fruit. Some producers will tell you that a little goes a long way. Lots of great Châteauneufs contain only 10-15% of this tough, sinewy character. A noble and notable exception are the, unsurprisingly, tight and long-lived wines of the renowned Château de Beaucastel. (If you are hankering for the full-throttle Mourvédre experience, by the way, you can get it in the fantastic wines of Bandol, from even further south near Marseille. Or in Spain. But that’s another story.)

Syrah comprises around 20% of the blend for many good wines. There are just as many good exceptions. Some excellent producers make Châteauneuf with 30% Syrah or more. For Syrah to take starring role is less traditional: its main stage is in the Northern Rhône. But for many producers it brings refinement of tannin and texture, as well as purity and focus.

The rehabilitation of Grenache’s reputation is well underway, aided by the increasing quality of this appellation, by far the grape’s largest shop window. The International Grenache Symposium and ‘Grenache Day’, first held in 2010, are in their third year, and look to be well established. That so many Grenache producers across the world believed that such an initiative was needed tells of the split personality of this widely planted variety. Vast swathes of Grenache are planted across southern France (and even more in Spain). This thin-skinned, low acid, eager variety can, and does, produce plenty of undistinguished, fruity, warmly alcohol pale reds and pink rose. You will read in many text books that Grenache is prone to oxidation and doesn’t age.

However, Grenache’s quality potential is turbocharged by low yields, and reaches warp speed with vine age. Old vine Grenache is the secret of the best wines of Châteauneuf du Pape, giving miniscule yields of fragrant, rich grapes in  arid, stony vineyards.  These are wines of haunting aromas, seductive texture and joyfully perplexing staying power.

There is increased awareness of the potential of Grenache around the world, if treated with respect, and Châteauneuf is the variety’s poster girl. The greatest wine of the region – Château Rayas – has for years been made entirely of Grenache. (One of my best wine memories is serving a 1989 Rayas (blind) to a table and hearing a great and spontaneous hush as they drank it.) Many Châteauneuf producers now make a pure Grenache, usually from old vines, and usually in tiny quantities at prestige prices. These are my favourite wines of this renowned but sometimes complacent appellation. I love paradox in wine, and great Grenache from Châteauneuf delivers it in a way that the other varieties don’t. These relatively pale wines counterpoint warmth with delicacy, and weight with silk. They are, almost inexplicably, elegant.

A variation in styles can bring problems for a classic wine, whose quality is predicated on an idea of typicity. That the image and coherence of Châteauneuf du Pape have endured, despite some very different approaches to grape variety, new oak and ageing regime, may be because many of her best producers embrace the diverse possibilities and make both ‘modern’ and ‘traditional’ styles. Both are capable of expressing the warmth, complexity and richness of this ancient terroir. 

Here are four Chateauneuf du Papes from two producers at different price points, all of which offer superb value for money:

Andre Brunel
2010 Les Cailloux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
£250 per 12 bottles in bond
The Les Cailloux 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape looks to be superb as well. Yields were low because over 30% of Brunel’s Grenache was lost in the poor flowering (the average was 20 hectoliters per hectare). The wine reveals a dense ruby/purple color (more saturated than the 2009), slightly more definition, structure and acidity, and precise blueberry and black raspberry fruit notes intermixed with licorice and a floral component. Full-bodied and deep, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and should evolve effortlessly for 15-20 years. (Tasted October 2011). 92-95 points, Robert Parker

2010 Cuvée Centenaire Châteauneuf-du-Pape
£895 per 12 bottles in bond
There was no 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire produced, but the 2010 Les Cailloux Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire was made from vines planted in 1889. Composed of 94% Grenache and 6% Mourvedre (it is one of the few vintages where no Syrah was used in the blend), this intense Chateauneuf oozes raspberry fruit intermixed with notions of kirsch, lavender, spice box, pepper and roasted meats. Rich, full-bodied and unctuously textured, it should turn out to be one of the all time great Cuvee Centenaires. Over the last 22 years, the Cuvee Centenaire has only been produced in 1989, 1990, 1995,1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007 and now 2010. (Tasted October 2011). 94-98 points, Robert Parker

Château Fortia
2010 Château Fortia Tradition Châteauneuf-du-Pape
£200 per 12 bottles in bond
The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape (3,500 to 4,000 cases produced) possesses a much deeper color than its 2009 counterpart as well as abundant aromas of blue and black fruits intermixed with kirsch, lavender and other spring flowers, medium to full body, good density and a supple, concentrated finish. Obviously low yields have given this wine serious intensity. (Tasted October 2011). 87-89 points, Robert Parker

2010 Château Fortia Reserve Châteauneuf-du-Pape
£260 per 12 bottles in bond
Made from 80% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, the brilliant 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is atypical in terms of its component parts. While I am not generally a lover of Syrah in Chateauneuf du Pape, this offering is outstanding. Its dense purple color is accompanied by plenty of blueberry and creme de cassis notes intertwined with a floral/lavender component, a deep, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, sweet tannin, decent acidity and good precision and freshness. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years. Bottom line – avoid the 2009s and give a serious look at the 2010s. (Tasted October 2011). 91-93 points, Robert Parker

And another Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a world class producer:

2010 Clos Saint Jean, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
£175 per case of 12
£160 per case of 12 when 24 bottles or more are bought
The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape (75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and the rest Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese from 75 year old vines) is aged in tank (the Grenache), small barrels and 600-liter demi-muids. Its dense purple color is followed by scents of lead pencil shavings, white chocolate, lavender, black currants and sweet cherries. Pure and full-bodied with good acidity as well as a long finish, this fragrant, poised Chateauneuf should drink nicely for 10-12+ years.
90-92 points, Robert Parker