Saint Emilion 2012 – why classify?
Saint Emilion, in spirit at least, is far removed from the flat expanses and grand Châteaux of the Médoc. This hilly, sacred town is stirringly picturesque, with an ancient tradition of vines and winemaking. Today, both the town and its vineyards are a UNESCO world heritage site. There is a sense of a back story as you walk around Saint Emilion, which you don't need to be a wine nerd to feel. Religious significance, concentrated architectural interest and the eyrie views of vineyards combine to make this bit of Bordeaux more romantic than its left bank cousins.
Today, Saint Emilion is famed as a source of the Right Bank's greatest wines, as renowned as the best of the Left Bank Médoc. Not so long ago, however, it was a bit of a vinous back-water. It is further from the major ports than the Médoc, and also from the tempering influence of the sea. Summer is warmer, but more abrupt. Merlot and Cabernet Franc dominate. Soils are very significant in Saint Emilion. It's not that soil profile is unimportant in the Médoc – all the great estates have most or all of their vineyards on the famous gravel outcrops. In the Médoc the structure of vineyard ownership - in which parcels belonging to a single estate can be scattered across a commune - smoothes out the lumps and bumps. Vineyard ownership in Saint Emilion is generally more contiguous. The most highly classified wines of Saint Emilion tend to come (like so many of subtlety and nuance from all over the world) from limestone soils.
That classification has come under scrutiny this month, following its latest revision. Unlike the classification of the Médoc, which was established in 1855 and has been left more or less alone, Saint Emilion reclassifies every 10 years. The 1855 classification grouped together wines selling at similar prices. In essence, it used market demand as a measure of quality. Saint Emilion classification criteria take account of selling prices (aka 'reputation'), but also considers the consistency and quality of terroir, assesses back vintages in blind tasting tests, and analyses production methods. The progressive Saint Emilion approach is seen by some to be fairer in recognising improvements, and a guardian of sustained quality.
The 2012 headlines have been dominated by the promotion of just two properties, Angelus and Pavie, to the very top tier of Premier Grand Cru Classe A. Angelus is a beauty, and has commanded top whack for some time. The full-throttle, impressive but rather steroidal Pavie has always been a controversial wine, and that hasn't done its 'reputation' any harm so far. The point is that classification is not really a consumer guardian. It is a promotional tool. Humans love ranking, and competing, and competing to own (and trade) the 'best'. Well, some humans love it, and are able to do it. Demand for Pavie soared following its promotion. I don't understand why that seems to affront some: there's a strong secondary market for this wine, and those looking for wine to sell on at an eventual profit have made reasonable assumptions.
In the meantime, while Saint Emilion has got your attention, there are scores of delicious, fragrant, supple reds here at fair prices, and a range of qualities. When you find your favourite you might want to keep it quiet. You don't want their 'reputation' officially increasing. They may be promoted.
Taste for yourself! We have stock of the following wines from Saint-Emilion:
Château Bellevue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé, vintages 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2009
This once under performing Château is now under the same ownership as top estate Angelus, and is fulfilling the potential of its excellent terroir with rich, seductively textured wines. 2005 has the greatest power, Parker Points and price tag. For those who enjoy a slightly lighter take on modern Saint-Emilion, the 2004 and 2006 are both a great buy. 2009 is both luscious and elegant.
The other side of the story: officially 'modest' wines of superb quality:
2009 Le Carré, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Made by renowned garagiste, Johnathan Maltus, this intense, concentrated wine is from a single vineyard next to Clos Fourtet. Around 300 cases are produced with each vintage. According to its 'official' classification, this wine is not among the greatest wines of Saint Emilion. The market disagrees.
2009 Les Astéries, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Another cult wine from the Maltus stable. This rocky vineyard of just one hectare is planted with some of the oldest vines in Saint Emilion, by virtue of their (almost miraculous) survival of the 'killing frost' of 1956. It is produced in quantities even tinier than those of Le Carré, and despite its modest official classification remains one of the most famous and sought-after wines of Saint Emilion.
Further reading
Jane Anson has an admirably clear description of the 2012 judging methodology and promotions, absorptions and demotions on her New Bordeaux blog.
Erudite and intelligent take from Andrew Jefford for Decanter.
Saint Emilion, in spirit at least, is far removed from the flat expanses and grand Châteaux of the Médoc. This hilly, sacred town is stirringly picturesque, with an ancient tradition of vines and winemaking. Today, both the town and its vineyards are a UNESCO world heritage site. There is a sense of a back story as you walk around Saint Emilion, which you don't need to be a wine nerd to feel. Religious significance, concentrated architectural interest and the eyrie views of vineyards combine to make this bit of Bordeaux more romantic than its left bank cousins.
Today, Saint Emilion is famed as a source of the Right Bank's greatest wines, as renowned as the best of the Left Bank Médoc. Not so long ago, however, it was a bit of a vinous back-water. It is further from the major ports than the Médoc, and also from the tempering influence of the sea. Summer is warmer, but more abrupt. Merlot and Cabernet Franc dominate. Soils are very significant in Saint Emilion. It's not that soil profile is unimportant in the Médoc – all the great estates have most or all of their vineyards on the famous gravel outcrops. In the Médoc the structure of vineyard ownership - in which parcels belonging to a single estate can be scattered across a commune - smoothes out the lumps and bumps. Vineyard ownership in Saint Emilion is generally more contiguous. The most highly classified wines of Saint Emilion tend to come (like so many of subtlety and nuance from all over the world) from limestone soils.
That classification has come under scrutiny this month, following its latest revision. Unlike the classification of the Médoc, which was established in 1855 and has been left more or less alone, Saint Emilion reclassifies every 10 years. The 1855 classification grouped together wines selling at similar prices. In essence, it used market demand as a measure of quality. Saint Emilion classification criteria take account of selling prices (aka 'reputation'), but also considers the consistency and quality of terroir, assesses back vintages in blind tasting tests, and analyses production methods. The progressive Saint Emilion approach is seen by some to be fairer in recognising improvements, and a guardian of sustained quality.
The 2012 headlines have been dominated by the promotion of just two properties, Angelus and Pavie, to the very top tier of Premier Grand Cru Classe A. Angelus is a beauty, and has commanded top whack for some time. The full-throttle, impressive but rather steroidal Pavie has always been a controversial wine, and that hasn't done its 'reputation' any harm so far. The point is that classification is not really a consumer guardian. It is a promotional tool. Humans love ranking, and competing, and competing to own (and trade) the 'best'. Well, some humans love it, and are able to do it. Demand for Pavie soared following its promotion. I don't understand why that seems to affront some: there's a strong secondary market for this wine, and those looking for wine to sell on at an eventual profit have made reasonable assumptions.
In the meantime, while Saint Emilion has got your attention, there are scores of delicious, fragrant, supple reds here at fair prices, and a range of qualities. When you find your favourite you might want to keep it quiet. You don't want their 'reputation' officially increasing. They may be promoted.
Taste for yourself! We have stock of the following wines from Saint-Emilion:
Château Bellevue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé, vintages 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2009
This once under performing Château is now under the same ownership as top estate Angelus, and is fulfilling the potential of its excellent terroir with rich, seductively textured wines. 2005 has the greatest power, Parker Points and price tag. For those who enjoy a slightly lighter take on modern Saint-Emilion, the 2004 and 2006 are both a great buy. 2009 is both luscious and elegant.
The other side of the story: officially 'modest' wines of superb quality:
2009 Le Carré, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Made by renowned garagiste, Johnathan Maltus, this intense, concentrated wine is from a single vineyard next to Clos Fourtet. Around 300 cases are produced with each vintage. According to its 'official' classification, this wine is not among the greatest wines of Saint Emilion. The market disagrees.
2009 Les Astéries, Saint Emilion Grand Cru
Another cult wine from the Maltus stable. This rocky vineyard of just one hectare is planted with some of the oldest vines in Saint Emilion, by virtue of their (almost miraculous) survival of the 'killing frost' of 1956. It is produced in quantities even tinier than those of Le Carré, and despite its modest official classification remains one of the most famous and sought-after wines of Saint Emilion.
Further reading
Jane Anson has an admirably clear description of the 2012 judging methodology and promotions, absorptions and demotions on her New Bordeaux blog.
Erudite and intelligent take from Andrew Jefford for Decanter.
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