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An extract from The Drinks Business, "On the third day of Christmas…" 10 December 2025, by Colin Hay

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An extract from The Drinks Business, "On the third day of Christmas…" 10 December 2025

By Colin Hay

"On the third day of Christmas, my true love is starting to lose a little of her early-season festive cheer. Perhaps this self-assembled mixed case of Champagnes will help? 

The wines: In a similar vein, another (self-assembled) mixed case – Christmas turns out to be quite a lot of work this year for my true love!

The concept: It’s not Christmas without Champagne and I’ve had the good fortune this year to taste a fair bit of grower champagne that has really impressed me. So I’ve splurged a bit here in proposing a mixed case of no fewer than 9 bottles – 3 non-vintage, 6 vintage. And, at the risk of getting into a little bit of trouble, one of them is not Champagne at all – but, instead, a rare wine from the UK that would fare very well in a blind tasting alongside similarly prices top producer Champagnes. It comes from Paul-Emmanuel Taittinger and Patrick McGrath MW’s joint venture Evremond.

Yours for: There are a lot of options here and it’s surely only credible to think that any real world true love is going to construct his or her own mixed case from some of these suggestions. At one end of the spectrum, a three-bottle case of Chassenay d’Arce’s excellent Confidences from the 2012 vintage will set our proverbial true love back not much more than €100, with all taxes paid. Similarly, a 6 bottle carton of Evremond’s Classic Cuvée Edition I is available from Grand Vin Wine Merchants for a very reasonable £235 in bond. At the other end of the spectrum, the full case of 9 bottles is not going to leave your true love with much change from £500 in the UK.

...


Domaine Evremond Classic Cuvée Edition I NV (Champagne; 12.5% alcohol). From a joint venture between Paul-Emmanuel Taittinger and Patrick McGrath MW (hence the alternating French and English in the identification of the wine on the label). This breaks the rule for me which is that English sparkling of any given quality is invariably more expensive than in French counterparts if the latter is well-sourced. This is excellent and, for the quality, is very reasonably priced (which given that it is not cheap says a lot for the quality). Ginger ale and a little fresh ginger too. Gooseberries, elderberries and elderflower cordial – actually, all very English. Fresh, crisp, Bramley green apple skin too. The dosage (not stated on the bottle, disappointingly) is spot on. And there’s a lovely calcaire creaminess but also chiselled precision. Close your eyes and you’re in hallowed (dare I say, French) terroir. Impressive. 93. Available widely in the UK, for example from Grand Vin Wine Merchants at £235 in bond for a case of 6 bottles."


See our article from 9th July for more detail.

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