Shades of red, yellow..and grey

As exciting as it is to be part of the En Primeur frenzy, it's important not to get too carried away by the glamour of the Châteaux and their dinners, and the joy of talking with old friends. I empathise with your excitement, Hch, and remember those first visits well! Ah the tastings...the lawns...the beautiful Châteaux...the dinners...oh look, more delicious food! But Bordeaux, as a wine region, is facing some of its greatest challenges, in a history not unmarked by hardship, controversy and swings of fortune. The golden halo of Bordeaux's greatest wines - her first growths and 'garage' (a terrible term) cult wines - is flickering. There is a danger that the financial success of these producers, and in particular their prices, is alienating wine lovers, at a time when their 'quality', in many senses, has never been higher. There have been some rather unedifying squabbles over journalistic embargoes, as well as some very genuine concerns over the role of merchants and commentators in providing grist to the mill of the great cash flow injection that is the En Primeur structure. I hope the Bordelais recognise this moment as pivotal, and that we can come together to restate what the region is really about. Away from the price hysterics of the top 40 or 50 wines (and they go back for decades), you need only take a wander around the still slightly gritty city of Bordeaux and a drive around the region to understand it. This isn't yet another plea from a UK importer not to put prices up (that would be pointless, and probably annoying. Stronger forces are at work.). It's a reminder that the majority of wine produced here is good, honest stuff, designed for drinking and enjoying. Quality around the £10-£15 mark is extremely high. The white wines of Graves are massively under-rated, and fairly prices. And what about Sauternes? Great wines there, worth every penny. These unsung heroes are what the Bordelais and CIVB should be shouting about, especially if the halo effect of those superstars seems to be faltering! Rant over....see you in France!

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