Dom Perignon Tasting | Louise Blouin Foundation | June 2013

The opportunity to taste Champagne’s iconic Dom Pérignon in the company of Chef de Cave, Richard Geoffroy was not to be missed.  15 of us sat down in the minimalist and contemporary setting of the Louise Blouin Foundation to listen to this most infectiously effusive of winemakers.  Geoffroy told us how it was his desire to get away from the standard concept of tasting a number of wines together, which he feels dilutes the picture.  Instead, we were to combine the flavours of numerous small dishes with the latest release of Dom Pérignon, in order to allow each dish to work its own unique magic and release the myriad characteristics of the 2004 vintage.

We started with Dashi (Japanese stock base) and Oyster juice. Intensely flavoursome and full of umami; these got the show off to quite a start.  This was quickly followed by chequered tomato juice aspic and Albacore tuna, with sweet orange oil and Fleur de sel.  All of which partnered effortlessly with the Champagne.  Next was the grilled crab & grilled liquorice.  We were instructed to poke the crab meat from the shell with a woody stick of liquorice and then to suck and chew on the same stick.  It was quite extraordinary the way this brought out the spicy aromatics and smokiness of the Dom Pérignon.

Next came a miniature chestnut crêpe, which served to enhance the nuttiness of the Champagne. A glass of duck consommé hinted at meatiness as did the aubergine. “Meat without body” as Geoffroy put it.


Minuscule cubes of lemon aspic & balsamic aspic shook my palate awake, then the corn soufflé reset it. Geoffroy described this as an airy sensation like floating on clouds.

The following plate of sole “au vert” was magnificent, full of joie de vivre. This delivered the very essence of Spring. Vibrantly zesty and focussed, it highlighted the precision of the DP ‘04.

Almond blancmange has to be one of the most refined and elegant desserts I've ever encountered. This lingered an eternity on the palate and showed off the polished and subtle nature of the wine.

Poached pear with mace was by far the most challenging of combinations. A macho assault on the senses that surprisingly the DP was able to stand up to.

Finally, a refreshing marshmallow, perfumed with orange blossom left a wonderful floral sensation as the Dom slowly faded on the palate.

Recent vintages of Dom Pérignon have all been highly acclaimed and Geoffroy compared the first decade of the 2000’s to the legendary vintages of the ‘60s and ‘20s.  His unstoppable enthusiasm and vivacity have clearly rubbed off on the wines.

By Simon Quinn