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The Ultimate Champagne Experience | Ruinart followed by Krug

I thought I knew about Champagne but a two day trip to the region this week changed my whole perception.   After two decades of working with wine, I had never before visited Champagne but what better way to rectify that than with appointments at Ruinart and Krug.    At Ruinart, we were warmly welcomed into Champagne's oldest house.   Dom Ruinart was a contemporary and acquaintance of the man credited with creating the first Champagne, Dom Perignon.   Our visit started with a tour of one of their three levels of underground crayères.   As we descended their depths, the drop in temperature was profound. Upon entering the first chamber, words failed me; to call this awe-inspiring would be a gross understatement.   The vast chambers have shafts reaching vertically towards the surface far above, often exiting in someone’s back garden; therefore the tunnels are owned quite independently of whoever owns the property or land above. Resurfacing,...

Christine Arlaux-Maréchal of Champagne Arlaux given 'The French National Order of Merit'

We at BWI have the privilege of representing Champagne Arlaux as their exclusive agent in the UK. They offer an outstanding range of champagnes that really “fly under the radar” in terms of quality and style. They have a very distinctive style and create a very fine champagne, in large part due to late disgorgement when bottling. I was exceptionally fortunate recently to be invited to a very special event for Champagne Arlaux; the presentation of "Ordre national du Mérite" ( The French National Order of Merit ) to Christine Arlaux-Maréchal. This is an Order of State with membership (about 2500 members) awarded by the President of the French Republic. Following a long line of family members, Christine and her brother Phillipe carry on the champagne making tradition that has endured since production of sparkling wines started. This superseded the production of still wines in the Champagne region in 1826. Classified 100% Premier Cru, the vineyard follows the hillsid...

Dom Perignon Tasting | Louise Blouin Foundation | June 2013

The opportunity to taste Champagne’s iconic Dom Pérignon in the company of Chef de Cave, Richard Geoffroy was not to be missed.  15 of us sat down in the minimalist and contemporary setting of the Louise Blouin Foundation to listen to this most infectiously effusive of winemakers.  Geoffroy told us how it was his desire to get away from the standard concept of tasting a number of wines together, which he feels dilutes the picture.  Instead, we were to combine the flavours of numerous small dishes with the latest release of Dom Pérignon, in order to allow each dish to work its own unique magic and release the myriad characteristics of the 2004 vintage. We started with Dashi (Japanese stock base) and Oyster juice. Intensely flavoursome and full of umami; these got the show off to quite a start.  This was quickly followed by chequered tomato juice aspic and Albacore tuna, with sweet orange oil and Fleur de sel.  All of which partnered effortlessly with the C...

Dom Perignon 2003 and the dark side of luxury

Above: Dom Perignon 2003: a wolf in the forest, a sword in the stone, or just generally brooding 'neath the tree canopy? Wine stimulates more than just taste buds. Its symbolic and aesthetic attributes have long been embraced by priests and the powerful. Great wine is both an escape and an evocation. Champagne houses are not the only wine producers to understand and exploit this power (Bordeaux châteaux are increasingly adopting the techniques of luxury marketing), but they were certainly among the first. The Dom Perignon 2003 tastings in London last week were a fine example of the gloss a ‘luxury’ sensitivity can bring to the dear old UK wine trade, at least. The build up set a tone of exclusivity and mystique. Invitees received personal invitations (no group email) to a timed “1.5 hour experience” with Richard Geoffroy, Chef de Caves and “Creator of Vintages”. Details of the venue and experience would be sent once I had confirmed. How could anyone resist such intrigue? Behind ...