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Should we fear for Brunello? The dangerous allure of international grapes

In a week in which we've offered the deliciously characterful and traditional Brunello di Montalcino of Biondi Santi, I received the following letter from my fellow Master of Wine, Nick Belfrage. It is an open letter to the producers of Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello's lighter, slightly less serious, cousin. The producers are to vote on the 7th September on whether to allow a proportion of 'other' (for which, read Merlot, Cabernt Sauvignon or Shiraz) grape varieties into Rosso di Montalcino. Nick is an inspiring authority on Italian wine, and a great writer. His letter highlights many of the key characteristics that make wine such a powerful and rewarding expression of identity and place. AN OPEN LETTER FROM NICK BELFRAGE MW TO THE PRODUCERS OF MONTALCINO WINES I understand that, on Wednesday Sept 7, 2011, a vote will be held in the Assemblea of Montalcino wine producers on whether to allow a small but significant percentage of other grapes, which everyone underst...