Skip to main content

Posts

Showing posts with the label Master of Wine

Should wine lovers embrace alcohol?

I see from an article in today’s Drinks Business that Robert Parker, speaking at the industry conference WineFuture Hong Kong , has criticised increasing alcohol levels in wine. Parker (quoted by DB’s estimable editor, Patrick Schmitt) suggests that wines should not exceed 15% alcohol: “If you’ve made a wine at 16, 17, or 18% then that is not a table wine, and should not be sold as table wine; 15% I think is palatable, but above 15%, you start to get into a very grey area.” See the article here. The term “table wine” is key: the wine world is rich in acclaimed wines at 16% and beyond, but they inhabit different categories and expectations. A Tawny Port with an alcohol level of 20% perturbs no one because the tension between sweetness, extract, acidity and oxidative ‘bite’ offsets alcohol. We also tolerate and expect that heady, sweet burn: that’s what Port is, and has been for some time. Modern viticultural techniques and warmer conditions have made sugar - and therefore alcohol - leve...

Château Canon - thoughts on a wine dinner on Wednesday 12th October 2011

Behind the scenes I love putting on wine dinners, but of all wine experiences they take the most work. The search for the perfect and available venue is infinite. We were delighted to get in at Glaziers Hall, a relative youth of the London Livery Halls, which has lovely spaces, a central location and a super efficient events team. The wines may be the star attraction, but if the food disappoints, the evening will fail. So we blew the budget and chose award-winning caterers Inn or Out, whose director, Lena Bjorck - a knockout 6 foot Swedish blonde – inspires unfailingly high standards. Menu – by Inn or Out Selection of warm canapés: Lobster Bisque with a Parmesan and Fennel Straw ‘Old Spot’ Pork Belly with Apple and Honeyed Crackling Line Caught Halibut Wrapped in Pancetta with Gremolata Autumn Mushroom Beignet with a Béarnaise Dip Butternut Squash and Sage Risotto Served on a Spoon Jersey Royal with Melted Aged Cheddar and Sour Cream Ficelle and Crisp ...

Should we fear for Brunello? The dangerous allure of international grapes

In a week in which we've offered the deliciously characterful and traditional Brunello di Montalcino of Biondi Santi, I received the following letter from my fellow Master of Wine, Nick Belfrage. It is an open letter to the producers of Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello's lighter, slightly less serious, cousin. The producers are to vote on the 7th September on whether to allow a proportion of 'other' (for which, read Merlot, Cabernt Sauvignon or Shiraz) grape varieties into Rosso di Montalcino. Nick is an inspiring authority on Italian wine, and a great writer. His letter highlights many of the key characteristics that make wine such a powerful and rewarding expression of identity and place. AN OPEN LETTER FROM NICK BELFRAGE MW TO THE PRODUCERS OF MONTALCINO WINES I understand that, on Wednesday Sept 7, 2011, a vote will be held in the Assemblea of Montalcino wine producers on whether to allow a small but significant percentage of other grapes, which everyone underst...