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2011 Bordeaux Diary - Tuesday 3rd April - Right Bank Revelations

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Today began well, with a (relative) lie-in. And got rapidly better, with Cheval Blanc, Yquem, L'Evangile, Vieux Chateau Certan, Petrus and Le Pin.

There has been much positive talk about Sauternes and Barsac in 2011. Yquem is indeed sensational - intense but refined. I look forward to tasting more later in the week. Pomerol is looking truly lovely. Vieux Chateau Certan won my heart completely. I have a touch of healthy hero-worship for Alexandre Thienpont. He always takes the time to explain, no matter what. There's much more Cabernet Franc in 2011 VCC, and it gives the wine a heavenly, violet-scented lift. Alexandre thinks the very particular circumstances of 2011 have brought out the best in Cabernet Franc, which he observes copes much better with drought than it does heat. Over in Saint Emilion, Cheval Blanc also showcases Cabernet Franc's arresting, high-toned aromatics; in 2011 it is 52% of the blend.

2011 was the first vintage for Cheval's brand new winery and barrel cellar. It is rather beautiful, and nicely low-lying. Andy (Lench - "The Chief") tells me it cost 13 million euros. Rather a bargain, when you think that Cos's cost 30 mill. (Don't hold your breath for those 50% price cuts.)

Barrel Cellar at Cheval Blanc
From these heights we get down and dirty with the vintage on the right bank at the open, walk around "Circle de Rive Droit" and UGC tastings at Chateau Beauregard and Grand Barrail. This is where you see the vintage naked: the difficulties and problems of this topsy turvy season in the hands not only of the top tier, but also those properties where money is an object. Pomerol came out well, as did Lalande de Pomerol. I also tasted some delightful wines from Fronsac - this is a charming sweet spot in 2011.

In Saint Emilion, wines range from the superb, succulent but refined Chateau Figeac, to the floozie's charms of the sweet, hot and over-extracted.

Time for dinner. And several rennies.

A demain.







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